(2012) Update… I think he likes it!
This hand painted rocking chair is for my nephew’s first baby who arrived in January 2011.
Inspired by this Mary Engelbreit painting publication (2005)
|Love this book! (Thank You Sister for finding all the BEST STUFF)|
- Tips & Other Curious Things
- Be patient! Allow base coat to dry completely before applying the next color application.
- Practice, Practice Practice! Painting is like learning to write or learning the art of calligraphy; the more you do it, the better you will become.
- If using a marker for detailing, make sure it is a permanent marker. Otherwise it may bleed or run when applying the clear top coat.
- Step One – Preparation
I prepped the chair by filling in the staple holes and any imperfections with wood putty. Once the putty dried I sanded the chair completely and wiped it down with a damp cloth to remove the dust particles.
- Step Two – Base Coat & Top Coat
- The base coat is a mixture of 3 parts white primer (I used KILZ Latex interior/exterior water-base Multi-Purpose Stainblocker) to 2 parts Terra Cotta Acrylic Paint, available at your local craft store. You may adjust the recipe ratio depending on the depth of color you are trying to achieve.
- The top coat is a mixture of 3 parts white primer to 1 part Bright Blue Acrylic Paint. The recipe in the book called for colbalt blue, which I will definitely use next time. I was hoping for a little softer blue color.
- I used a dry bush technique to apply the top coat because I wanted the Terra Cotta color to show through the top coat. After the top coat was completely dry I used sand paper to give the chair a distressed appearance.
- Step Three- Painting
- I get my inspirations from internet clipart, and a variety of books, the possibilites are endless.
- Most of the time I trace my design on before I paint. It is harder for me to paint freehand.
- For the detailing and lettering, I trace the design onto the chair and then used a Prismacolor Premier black marker. The pen has a broad chisel tip on one end and a fine tip on the other. I thought this was a permanent marker.
I use a spray semi-gloss clear coat to seal and protect the final product. I was not patient and sprayed a little too close to the lettering and it started to smear into the wood grain, ugh!
I stopped spraying and allowed the top coat to dry completely and walked away from the project for a couple of hours. This time allowed me to think about how I was going to fix the problem. I sanded the lettering and any other effected area and wiped it down to make sure the area was clean. I went over it again with the marker. I took a chance and used the same marker because I did not have anything else on hand. This time when applying the clear coat I took my time, holding the spray can farther away from the target area. I allowed at least 15 to 20 minutes between each coat that I applied.